Blankenship Civil Construction

​    Certified SDVOSB

The process of combining seed, mulch, fertilizer, and healthy soil amendments with water to mix
in a HydroSeeder® tank to form a thick slurry. This slurry is applied with pressure to the surface
for seed germination and turf development.



Whether it's on your building site or home lot, we have a solution for you. We have been in the hydroseed business since 2005 and have developed mixes for the Georgia, South Carolina, and Northern Florida regions that work! Let us get your yard in shape or pull you through the N.O.T. process with success. 

There is a lot of information on this page that will give you a pretty good idea if hydroseeding will work for your needs. HOWEVER, please call us with questions. We can expand on your situation and answer more questions via the phone. We will make a site visit to evaluate your need even more if needed. 

We have sprayed 1/5 acres lots up to a 550 acre site and all in between.

Types of Grasses available:

Permanent Grasses

Common Bermuda

Black Jack Bermuda

TifBlair Centipede

Zenith Zoysia

Pictures of Seeding

Video of Seeding

Seedbed Preparation:

Do not use any pre-emergent or weed and feed 90 days prior to hydroseeding the lawn. These chemicals are designed to kill seeds and seedlings for an extended amount of time.  
Do spray RoundUp on the existing ares if there is an excess of weeds and unwanted grasses. This must be done 14 days prior to hydroseeding.
Do rake out the area to smooth out and loosing up the first 2-3 inches of soil. Pick up all debris such as leaves, limbs, and stones. 

Care of your new hydroseeded site or lawn:


For grass seed to germinate it must stay moist continuously for 14-21 days.
For the first seven days water twice each day. Usually 25–30 minutes on each section of the lawn, but your lawn may need more or less time, depending on slope, soil conditions, and weather. The goal is to keep the mulch and seed moist. DO NOT puddle water.  Hot weather may require more frequent watering, for example, and a sloping lawn may need longer, slower watering because of runoff. The lawn should be saturated—wet enough that you can’t walk on it without leaving footprints. You may want to start your watering at the point that’s farthest from the house and work in, to avoid walking on the sloppy wet lawn.
After the first seven days, water heavily, but only those areas where grass is not visible. Where grass has appeared, limit watering to one inch a week, preferably in the morning hours.
After grass stand is established, normally three to four weeks, water as you would an established lawn, about an inch each week, preferably in the morning hours. You can judge the amount by placing a flat pie pan or similar container in the area being watered. When an inch of water has collected, that area has had enough water, and you are ready to go on to the next area.


Mow your lawn as soon as it reaches a height of three inches.
Make sure your mowing blades are sharp.
Set your mowing height at three inches and leave it there.
Do not rake newly seeded lawns.
Mow your lawn on a regular basis, every seven to ten days.


The fertilizer applied with the initial seeding will carry the lawn for the initial growth period.
Due to the lack of topsoil, your lawn will have to be fertilized about six to seven weeks after sodding.The grass may show spots of yellowing, a sign of nitrogen deficiency. This is because, as nitrogen moves through the soil, the heavy watering necessary on a newly seeded area leaches the nitrogen out of the root zone. Also, new lawns, freshly backfilled and graded, are often not uniform in soil type and structure, or in fertility; this can also contribute to yellowing of the lawn in spots. Unless the weather is hot and dry, a supplementary application of nitrogen when these spots appear will boost the grass toward quicker maturity. Lawns need to be fertilized four to five times a year to become thick and lush.

Weed Control:

Weeds often appear in a new lawn, especially one that is planted in the spring. The presence of these weeds sometimes initiates frantic efforts to eliminate them, when in fact, they might be better left alone. Many of the weeds that accompany grass germination in the spring are annuals, whose seed is constantly present in the soil. If they naturally grow tall, regular mowing will be enough to control them. If they are low-growing varieties, such as crabgrass, they will likely stay in the lawn until fall, at which time their life cycle ends. Although they do compete with the grass, normally the grass plants will coexist with these weeds, and the following spring their germination can be chemically prevented. Spraying weeds with chemicals in new grass is risky, since immature grass is susceptible to chemical damage.
If chemicals need to be applied take care to follow the manufacturer’s directions to the letter. 

Articles about the benefits of Hydroseeding